1st CHERRY

Some of first cherries in the season ripe in Vipava valley. They aren't very sweet, neither very big. Nevertheless, they have an advantage over later, tastier companions.

They aren't wormy!

If you compare cherries which are not sprayed.

PROMOTING INDIGENOUS

Choosing indigenous place to talk about indigenous wine promotion. Erzelj. We were talking about Zelen, Pinela, Rebula and Klarnica, from which truly indigenous wine in Vipava valley is Zelen. Others were brought centuries ago from Greece or Asia Minor and later Italy. Winemakers Andlovic (Avin), Krapež, Mesesnel, Mlečnik, Premrn (Pasji rep), Šušmelj (Miška), Vodopivec (Slavčeva kmetija), Turk (from Erzelj) and biggest wine cellar in the region Agroind Vipava brought their wines to taste. Different stiles of wines ranging from last years to 5 years old, from skin contact of couple of hours to three days and produced naturally or with oenological means. Nice wines.

Miro Kline one of Slovenia's leading experts on branding and consumer behaviour held a lecture which was leading to debate while tasting wine.

For this occasion I prepared green asparagus and cooked beef salad in small flan pastry bowl

Two of the wines left impression on me:

Zelen, vintage 2011, produced by Trošt Boštjan from Orehovica (who wasn't present) which is supposedly grown from original grapevine clone. The wine was left 3 days on skins, what is not usual for this wine. The wine is very rounded, fine structured, stronger as most of wine this kind, but not heavy.

The second wine was Pinela, vintage 2007, produced by Valter Mlečnik, who is known for his Sauvignonasse, Rebula, Chardonnay and Merlot. Also very different wine from what is considered as typical Pinela. 3-day skin contact, natural viticulture and wine making method makes it quite different from usual. This wine is also full in mouth, complex, but typical acidity for Pinela makes it young and lively. Unfortunately the quantity of this Pinela is so small he didn't even bother to label the bottles, it remains more as an experiment.

Different cork, different wine...

Wine samples

    

  

IS IT ORANGE?

I waited a few days to let my impressions of first Slovenian orange wine festival in Izola settle down. It was a event which surpassed many expectations. From the organization side as from visitors and of participants-winemakers side.
About 40 winemakers mostly from Slovenia, some from neighbouring areas of Italy and Croatia took part. The Manzioli palace was just right size for this event and the combination of spatial connection between opening ceremony in nearby church, exhibition place in the Manzioli palace and event place in between was delightful. I hope for second festival next year. Same place.
I expected a bit more debate about orange wine, but it was OK so for the first time.
Just recently major Slovenian wine festival in Ljubljana, which is going on in November offered to organize first Slovenian orange wine assessment. I can't avoid funny feeling about whole story around orange wine. Last November they hardly let a group of natural winemakers to explain about their method of work. With increasing popularity of orange wine everybody wants to hop on  this train. Some winemakers in Vipava valley, Brda, Kras are making this kind of wine for many years, they were considered more or les natural wines.


But what is orange wine anyway? The mostly quoted explanation is the expression came from English language, it is white wine produced with same method as reds are, longer skin contact, even during fermentation. It is also strongly related to natural wine production. This is where this color comes from originally.

Orange wine is the most allusive term in describing wine comparing to white and red which describe only color, nothing else and rose wine, where production method is the key. As far as I know orange wine is not official expression, not yet. I doubt it makes sense to describe wine with this term or one should make some rules what exactly orange wine is. Pretty soon. Which nuance is the border between white and orange? Should there be certain method of orange wine production? How long should skin contact last to produce orange wine?
Since visiting natural wine fairs in Villa Favorita, Villa Boschi, and Cerea nobody was talking about orange wines. Natural and organic wines only. Of course there is always whole range of wines to taste; white, red, rose, sparkling. 
Should I expect to see orange section in one of natural wine fairs next year?

People tend to throw similar things to the same basket, without deeper knowledge, it is understandable.
If this is only (miss)used term for marketing it can make more harm on long run as benefit to honestly working winemakers. 
  
    

JAPANESE VISIT

Shortly before I came for a visit to one of my favorite winemakers Valter Mlečnik a group of Japanese visitors departed. Here is what they left behind.

a row of open bottles...

....sweets-citrusy crispy jelly

They should come more often.

VIGNERON'S LIVER

Don't mean it literally. Vasja invited last evening for a bite of liver he prepared from Krškopolje pig. This is a Slovenian autochtonous pig species, gaining on popularity. It wasn't appreciated till recently because of it's higher fat tissue rate compared to other more common, mass bred pig. If animals are given more land to move around this rate improves quite a bit. It's meat is excellent base for high value products like salami or dried ham-Kraški pršut (prosciutto). Especially if it is bred and raised locally like Dejan does it.

liver finely sliced...

sauted with onion, garlic, salt and pepper, at the end some white wine in this case Malvasia was added...vigneron's liver

Dejan made three types of salami from Krškopolje pig

Vasja honored us with opening some older wine stock like this Chardonnay, which was surprisingly alive and of course salami shouldn't be missing

and this wine made of air dried grapes, it lost the sweetness a bit, but still nice on the nose, smooth in mouth

Krškopolje pig, with typical black and white pattern

       

IN THE LAND OF YOUNG AND FRESH

Just recently I visited a small annual wine presentation event in Planina, village on beautiful hills surrounding Vipava valley. Nicely organized and very well visited event. It is dedicated to local grape Pinela, which is in Slovenia cultivated only in Vipava valley. It is hardy plant, whose grape produce enough sugar and nice acidity. Pinela is pleasant and flowery on nose and has fruity flavor. Wine of the future as some like to emphasize.
What was a bit odd to me is that almost every winery present on this event offered only last year's wine. They don't age it. But it is not the case just here, this notion is widespread. It is not because Pinela and other wine wouldn't age well. No doubt, quality vary from year to year and weather conditions, not two vintages are the same. I tried some fantastic Pinela samples, vintage 2008 and 2009. In my opinion ways better, rounder, more balanced as those offered. 

Small wineries in Vipava valley started to bottle their wine in the 80's and 90's. Before, they simply sold wine from barrels. The whole wine making process took place in wooden vessels. They tried to sell wine prior to next harvest. Old wisdom says the young wine is ready to drink when grape vines begin to bloom.
Were they wrong? 
There is so much talk about identity, terroir, local tradition....

traditional waulted wine cellar with old wooden cascs and new stainless steel tanks

vigneron and winemaker in one person also used to make his own cascs

Now most of this "young and fresh" wine is produced in locally made stainless steel tanks, with enzymes and yeasts provided by global corporations. 
Local meets global.

Often heard argument is they have to sell fast to get the money needed for everyday living.
Is this the right way? Wouldn't be possible to make more of it by selling higher quality wine? It is not easy to get a piece of overcrowded wine market, but it is sure easier to be spotted if you have something unique than a uniform product.
A few good wineries-winemakers from Vipava valley and surrounding areas prove it.
        

SALAMI MAKING CONTEST

20 salami makers took part at this year's contest hosting at last year's winner home Ambrozic in the village Slap

hard decision is to be made...

majority of contestants are from village Slap and neighbouring villages

most salami were made of non smoked pork, a few had some wild added or even some truffles. Salami were evaluated by it's apperance, smell and taste.

the winner takes it all...the privilege of preparing next year's contest belong to Andrej Petric from Slap